Christian Dior
French couturier who revived Paris fashion with the New Look.
Wikipedia / Wikimedia Commons
Christian Dior was a French fashion designer who founded the house that still bears his name. Born in 1905 in Granville, Normandy, he was the second of five children. His father ran a fertilizer and chemical business, and the family moved to Paris in 1911. Dior attended the Lycée Janson-de-Sailly, graduating in 1923, then enrolled at the Paris Institute of Political Studies to please his parents’ diplomatic ambitions, but he dropped out in 1926.
In 1928, with a friend and his father’s backing, Dior opened an art gallery in Paris. It showed works by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse, but closed in 1931 when his father lost his business during the Depression. Dior then worked at another gallery, representing Calder, Giacometti, and Dalí, until that too ran out of money in 1933. After contracting tuberculosis, he recovered at a family home in Callian, where he began sketching fashion. His drawings were bought by houses like Patou, Worth, Schiaparelli, Rouff, and Molyneux. He returned to Paris, working as a sketch artist for *Le Figaro* and *Le Jardin des Modes*.
In 1938, Robert Piguet hired Dior to design for three collections, introducing him to haute couture. Dior later credited Piguet with teaching him that a garment is about fabric, colors, shapes, and the woman inside it, and that fittings are essential. When war broke out in 1939, Dior served two years in the army’s 47th Infantry Division. Returning to occupied Paris, he worked for Lucien Lelong, who had kept the fashion houses open by negotiating with the Germans, saving 28,000 jobs. Under Lelong, Dior learned alongside designers like Balmain and Givenchy, and began designing film costumes in 1942.
In late 1946, textile magnate Marcel Boussac asked Dior to revive the house of Philippe et Gaston. Dior refused, wanting his own label. Boussac financed it with ten million francs, a business manager, and a deal giving Dior creative control and one-third of profits. The House of Dior opened on 8 October 1946 at 30 Avenue Montaigne, with 85 staff, seven models, and a salon decorated in black, white, and gray. His head milliner and muse was Mitzah Bricard. On 12 February 1947, Dior presented his first collection, “Corolla,” featuring 90 garments. In a time of austerity, his luxurious silk and satin designs caused a sensation. He described creating “flower women” with soft shoulders, full busts, narrow waists, and
- born
- 21 January 1905, Granville, Normandy, France
- died
- 24 October 1957
- field
- Fashion design
- nationality
- French
- known_for
- Founder of Christian Dior SE; creator of the 'New Look'
Lore & Background
Dior was born in Granville, Normandy, the second of five children. His father headed the fertilizer firm Dior Frères. The family moved to Paris in 1911, where Dior attended Lycée Janson-de-Sailly. He enrolled at the Paris Institute of Political Studies but dropped out in 1926. In 1928, with a friend and his father's funding, he opened an art gallery exhibiting works by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse. The gallery closed in 1931 after his father lost his business. Dior then worked at another gallery until it closed in 1933. After contracting tuberculosis, he recovered at his family's country home, where he began sketching fashion. His sketches were purchased by houses including Patou, Worth, and Schiaparelli. He later worked as a sketch artist for Le Figaro and Le Jardin des Modes.
In 1938, Dior was hired by Robert Piguet, who brought him into haute couture. After military service during World War II, he worked for Lucien Lelong, learning from him and collaborating with Balmain and Givenchy. In late 1946, textile magnate Marcel Boussac financed Dior's own house, which opened on 8 October 1946 on Avenue Montaigne. On 12 February 1947, Dior presented his first collection, 'Corolla,' featuring luxurious silk and satin garments. Harper's Bazaar editor Carmel Snow called it 'The New Look,' a term that defined the style for the next five years. Dior's subsequent collections introduced new lines each season, including the H-Line (1954) and A-Line (1955). His designs sometimes sparked controversy over hemlines and silhouette, such as the bust-binding H-line and skirts that raised or dropped hemlines.
Reader's Guide
Christian Dior's significance lies in his post-World War II revival of Parisian haute couture and his lasting influence on women's fashion. His 'New Look' of 1947, with its soft shoulders, full bust, narrow waist, and voluminous skirt, marked a dramatic departure from wartime austerity and uniform-like clothing. Dior's approach treated fashion as an art form and a continuation of French cultural heritage. He was one of the Big Four of 1950s haute couture, and his house expanded rapidly into accessories, ready-to-wear, and international markets, including a New York store opened in 1948. By the first anniversary of that store, Dior's products accounted for 75% of French fashion exports and 5% of France's annual export revenue. His seasonal 'lines'—from the Corolla to the A-Line—set trends and provoked debate, particularly over hemlines and silhouette. Dior's legacy includes his mentorship of designers like Pierre Cardin and his role in establishing the modern fashion house model of licensing and global expansion. His work continues to influence fashion design and the structure of the luxury industry.
Did You Know?
- Dior opened an art gallery in 1928 that exhibited works by Picasso, Braque, and Matisse.
- He worked as a sketch artist for Le Figaro and Le Jardin des Modes before entering haute couture.
- Dior's first collection, 'Corolla,' was presented on 12 February 1947 and featured 90 garments.
- By the one-year anniversary of his New York store, Dior's products accounted for 75% of French fashion exports.
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